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Hard corals are generally broken down into two categories; large polyp and small polyp. Both types of corals lay down calcium on a hard skeleton via the polyps. This means they require adequate levels of calcium to thrive. Generally a level above 400 ppm is desirable and many authors recommend 430-480 ppm calcium for these corals. Other elements needed for many of these corals to thrive is strontium, iodine, and trace elements. Many of these corals can be fed small bits of seafood (shellfish, crustaceans, squid, fish) but because they contain zooxanthellae it is usually not necessary.
Corals like these will propagate either by spawning or by "budding" which means the parent will grow small corals that will separate from the parent, or the parent will simply separate into multiple corals.
Many of these corals have long stinging tentacles called 'sweeper tentacles' which serve to cut down on competing corals in the nearby vicinity so you must give them plenty of room in the aquarium.
The hobbyist idea of "soft corals" is quite different than the actual definition. True soft corals, according to the definition, all belong to the subclass Octocorallia. The name "Octocorallia" refers to the fact that each polyp has eight tentacles. This can be confusing since many 'soft corals' are not actually soft. This definition includes such corals as the "Blue Coral", Heliopora coerulea, the Pipe Organ coral Tubipora musica, and the Gorgonians, all of which produce hard shells or skeletons. Another characteristic of true soft corals are the side branches of the polyp tentacle, called 'pinnules', which give the polyps a feathery look. Although pinnules are a sure sign of a soft coral, not all soft corals have them.
To the hobbyist soft corals are those that lack a hard skeleton like stony corals and don't have a tough skin like the leather corals. This is basically what we are listing in this section with the addition of the blue coral since it doesn't fit easily into any of the other categories.
Many soft corals contain zooxanthellae and so need a lot of light. On the other hand many of them, like the carnation corals, grow on the underside of reef ledges or shaded areas and don't require light. They usually must be fed to survive in the aquarium.
Leather corals are a soft coral with a rather tough leathery skin. They frequently contain zooxanthellae and therefore do well in bright light. They require currents to help them slough off a milky slime on their surface which is produced to rid itself of any algae or other irritants that may be present on the skin.
The gorgonians are soft coral colonies that are tree like. They attach themselves to rocks at the base and have a skeleton that is similar to animal horns.
Many gorgonians are photosynthetic and so need light to survive. Others, like the finger corals, grow at great depths or shaded areas and don't require light. They usually must be fed to survive in the aquarium.
Aquarium Care:
The gorgonians all need strong currents to help rid themselves of the waxy film that is secreted to rid themselves of algae. Surge devices or turbulent water flow is best.
Care of Photosynthetic Gorgonians:
Since they are photosynthetic, they need good lighting as well as strong currents. Although most are not accustomed to the very strong lights produced by metal halide, it is said that they will eventually adjust and grow faster because of it. Some can be fed while others cannot. In either case photosynthetic gorgonians don't need to be fed in order to survive.
Care of Non-Photosynthetic Gorgonians:
For those that need to be fed, feed them at least once a week. Feed detritus, brine shrimp, Daphnia, Cyclops, or pulverized flake food, shrimp or clams. Sometimes you can stir up the gravel slightly in order to mix detritus in the water for feeding the detritus eating species. (http://animal-world.com/encyclo/reef/.htm)







